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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. However, situated high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” states a family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant achieving such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. When the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.